If you collect three interior quotations for the same flat, you will usually get three totals that differ by a wide margin. The temptation is to assume the lowest one is the best deal and the highest one is overpriced. More often, the three documents are simply describing three different jobs: different quantities, different boards, different hardware, and different things left out. This guide shows how to read a quotation line by line and bring several of them to a common basis before you compare price.

Step one: make sure the scope is the same

Scope is the list of what will be built. Before looking at any rate, put the quotations side by side and check, room by room, that the same items appear:

  • Kitchen: base units, wall units, tall units, loft, countertop, backsplash, sink, tap, chimney and hob.
  • Wardrobes: number, width, height (to lintel or to ceiling), lofts, internal drawers and accessories.
  • Living and dining: TV unit, crockery unit, shoe unit, pooja unit, panelling.
  • Bedrooms: beds, side tables, dressers, study tables.
  • Services: false ceiling, electrical changes, lighting fixtures, painting, plumbing, civil work, deep cleaning.

It is very common for one quotation to include false ceiling and painting while another covers only modular furniture. A total that looks lower may simply be shorter. Ask each vendor to quote against the same written list, and where an item is missing, ask whether it is excluded or forgotten.

Step two: read the material specification

The same wardrobe can be built from very different materials, and that is where most of the genuine price difference lies. A proper quotation names the following for each item, not just “good quality ply”:

Core (carcass) material

  • Type: plywood, MDF, HDF-HMR, particle board or blockboard.
  • Grade for plywood, for example MR or BWR for dry areas and BWP (often called boiling-water-proof) for wet areas such as the sink unit.
  • Thickness of sides, shelves, back panels and shutters. Thin back panels are a quiet way of cutting cost.
  • Brand, or at least the standard the board conforms to.

If the grades are unfamiliar, our plywood grades explained guide sets them out, and the materials page shows the boards and finishes in one place.

Surface finish

  • Laminate thickness and brand for external faces, and what is used inside (often a thinner liner laminate).
  • For acrylic, PU, veneer, membrane or glass shutters, the exact type and the brand.
  • Edge banding type and thickness.

Finishes differ a lot in cost; PU, acrylic and laminate finishes explains why two kitchens of the same size can be priced so differently.

Hardware

Hinges, drawer channels, lift-up systems, wardrobe sliding systems and kitchen accessories are a significant part of the cost and the main factor in how furniture feels after a few years. Check that the quotation states:

  • The brand and the series. A brand name alone is not enough, because most hardware makers sell economy and premium ranges.
  • Whether hinges and channels are soft-close.
  • The number and type of drawers, pull-outs, tall-unit mechanisms and corner units.
  • Handle type: profile handle, handleless groove or separate handles, and whether they are included.

Step three: understand the unit of measurement

Interior work is priced in several units, and mixing them up makes comparison impossible.

  • Per square foot (sq ft) of the unit’s front face: width multiplied by height. Most wardrobes, kitchen cabinets and panelling are quoted this way. Ask whether the height includes the loft and the skirting.
  • Per running foot (rft): length only, regardless of height. Kitchens are sometimes quoted per running foot of counter, and items such as cove ceilings, skirting, profile lights and countertop edges are commonly per running foot.
  • Per number or lump sum: beds, loose furniture, accessories, sinks.
  • Per square foot of carpet or built-up area: package pricing for the whole home, and often used for painting and false ceiling.

Why sq ft versus running ft matters

A kitchen quoted per running foot assumes a standard height and depth. If your wall units are taller or you want a loft, the price rises in a way the headline rate does not show. Conversely, a per sq ft rate looks precise but depends entirely on how the area is measured. To compare two quotations in different units, ask both vendors for the total price of each item with its dimensions, then compare item totals rather than rates. Also check that the quantities themselves match; a wardrobe measured as seven feet wide in one quotation and eight in another is not the same wardrobe.

Package rates per sq ft of the flat are the hardest to compare, because the contents of the package vary. Ask for the package to be broken into an itemised list. For background on what moves the number, see what drives interior cost and our guide to modular kitchen price per square foot in Bangalore.

Step four: check GST and other taxes

Some quotations show prices inclusive of GST; others show the tax as a separate line at the end, or mention it only in the terms. Published GST guides, such as BUSY’s guide to GST on interior work, describe interior design services as taxed at 18 per cent, but the rate applied to your bill depends on how the supply is classified, so treat that as indicative and confirm it on the vendor’s quotation. What to check:

  • Is the total inclusive or exclusive of GST? Bring all quotations to the same basis before comparing.
  • Is GST charged on the full value, with a proper tax invoice carrying the vendor’s GSTIN?
  • Are appliances, loose furniture and decor billed separately, possibly at different rates?

An offer to skip the invoice in exchange for a lower price usually also means no enforceable paperwork for warranty or disputes. For tax questions specific to your situation, ask a chartered accountant.

Step five: read the exclusions

The exclusions list tells you what you will pay for separately. Common ones:

  • Electrical rewiring, new points, switches and light fittings.
  • Civil work, wall breaking, core cutting, plumbing changes and waterproofing.
  • Countertop, backsplash tiles, sink and tap.
  • Appliances and their installation.
  • Painting, or painting of only the touched-up areas.
  • Curtains, blinds, mattresses, loose furniture and decor.
  • Society deposits, lift or debris charges, and final deep cleaning.
  • Design changes after sign-off.

None of these exclusions is wrong in itself. What matters is that you add their likely cost to each quotation so that you compare complete project budgets.

Step six: payment milestones and terms

How you pay matters as much as how much. Look for:

  • Stage-linked payments. Payments tied to visible milestones such as design sign-off, start of production, material delivery to site, installation and handover are easier to track than date-based instalments.
  • The size of the advance and what it covers. Is the booking amount refundable or adjustable?
  • A retention: a portion payable only after handover and snag closure.
  • Timeline and delay terms. A stated completion period from a defined start point, and what happens if either side causes delay.
  • Change orders. How additions and deletions are priced and approved in writing.
  • Price validity of the quotation.
  • Warranty terms in writing, including what is excluded; prepare your interior warranty and after-sales questions before the meeting.

Whether a particular payment schedule suits you depends on your own finances and any loan disbursement terms; this guide is general information rather than financial advice.

A simple comparison sheet

Put the quotations into one spreadsheet with a row per item and these columns for each vendor: dimensions, unit and rate, core material and grade, finish, hardware brand and series, item total, and included or excluded. Add rows for GST, excluded items you will need anyway, timeline, payment stages and warranty. Once the sheet is filled in, the price gap between vendors usually either shrinks or becomes easy to explain.

Red flags

  • A single lump-sum figure with no item breakdown.
  • “Branded hardware” or “commercial ply” with no brand, grade or thickness.
  • No drawings or dimensions attached to the quotation.
  • Very large advance with no milestone link.
  • No mention of GST, or reluctance to issue an invoice.
  • Pressure to sign the same day for a discount.

Frequently asked questions

Why are interior quotations for the same flat so different?

Because they rarely describe the same work. Differences in scope, measured quantities, board grade, finish type and hardware series explain most of the gap. Normalise these first, then compare price.

Is a per sq ft or per running ft quotation better?

Neither is better in itself. What matters is that dimensions and item totals are shown, so you can verify the calculation and compare across vendors. Ask for both the rate and the item total.

Should the quotation include GST?

It should state clearly whether prices include GST, and the tax should appear on a proper invoice. Compare all quotations on the same inclusive or exclusive basis.

What should a good interior quotation contain?

An itemised scope with dimensions, material and grade for each item, finish, hardware brand and series, unit rates and totals, taxes, exclusions, timeline, payment stages, warranty and validity.

Is the lowest quotation a bad idea?

Not necessarily. A lower price can reflect a simpler specification that suits your needs. It is a concern only when the saving comes from unspecified materials, missing scope or the absence of paperwork.

Planning your interiors? Book a free design consultation or WhatsApp us on +91 88845 55998.